TEMOAYA,
MEXICO
(By
Héctor
Tobar,
LA
Times)
May 26,
2008 —
On a
recent
Sunday,
they
raised
an
orange
circus
tent in
the yard
of the
Castañeda
family
home on
the edge
of this
town
where
wind-blown
dust
paints
the
landscape
brown
and
gray.
The
Castañedas
are not
rich
people.
Vicente
Castañeda,
the
sixty something
patriarch,
owns a
few
acres of
land
where he
grows
beans
and
corn.
Benita,
the
seventh
of his
nine
children,
travels
two
hours to
Mexico
City
every
Monday
to work
in the
home of
an
expatriate
American
family:
mine.
Benita
lives in
our home
four
nights a
week.
After
two
years of
eating
her
meals,
and too
many
kitchen
conversations
to
count,
my wife
and I
know her
pretty
well.
We know
she
makes a
mole
sauce
that
reminds
you that
the
Aztecs
considered
that
chocolaty
dish a
food of
the
gods. We
know she
is an
intelligent
and
upbeat
woman of
30. And
we know
she's a
single
mom.
The
Castañedas
raised
the big
tent in
Temoaya
to
celebrate
the
baptism
of
Benita's
2-year-old
daughter,
Aranza.
It would
be a
party as
elaborate
as a
wedding,
and
nearly
as
expensive.
Benita
had
spent
several
months
preparing
for that
day, and
when she
invited
us to
drive
out to
her
village
to join
her, we
of
course
said
yes.
We
arrived
in
Temoaya,
a
village
with a
quaint
white
church
and
squat
neighborhoods
of
cinder-block
homes
set amid
fallow
fields.
The
circus
tent
rose, a
splash
of color
unnoticed
by the
few
cattle
grazing
in a
field
nearby.
Underneath
the
orange
tarp,
Aranza
was the
quiet
star of
the show
in her
flowing
white
baptismal
dress.
Benita
had
hired
three
clowns,
a troupe
of
mariachis
a dozen
strong
and two
other
musical
bands.
There
was a
videographer
and
photographer
to
record
it all
for
posterity.
The
family
bought
and
slaughtered
a pig
and
served
hot
meals
for 200
invited
guests
and any
neighbor
who
wanted
to drop
by.
All this
cost
Benita
and her
relatives
$3,000,
a huge
amount
considering
the
daily
minimum
wage in
this
country
is $5
and the
average
Mexico
City
domestic
makes
$150 a
week.
It
seemed a
tad
excessive
to our
frugal
American
eyes.
How
could an
impoverished
single
mother
spend
the
equivalent
of
several
months'
salary
on one
party?
Why not
take
that
money,
we
wondered,
and save
it for
Aranza's
education
or some
other
practical
use?
But
there is
another
logic, a
village
logic,
to
Benita's
decision.
When
you're
poor in
Mexico,
when you
live in
a rural
town
where
running
water is
a
luxury,
you have
one
source
of
"wealth"
you can
always
depend
on: your
extended
family
and your
community.
Aranza's
big
baptismal
party
was an
announcement
of her
belonging
in the
community.
So, for
one day,
her
mother
fed and
entertained
all her
relatives,
friends
and
neighbors
and made
great
sacrifices
to do
so,
because
in
Temoaya
and
villages
like it,
generosity
is the
cement
that
binds
people
together.
Like
many
young
women,
Benita
was
forced
to drop
out of
school
after
the
sixth
grade,
to work
in the
kitchen
and
fields.
She's
not
likely
to get
rich any
time
soon.
The
baptism
for her
daughter
was an
act of
motherly
love, as
if all
by
herself,
with a
single
day of
celebration,
she
could
fill the
vacuum
left by
the
father
who
remains
absent
and
unnamed.
"Will
the
parents
of this
beautiful
little
girl
come
forward,"
one of
the
first
clowns
announced
as he
entertained
the
crowd.
He
hadn't
been
informed
of the
socially
complicated
circumstances
behind
Aranza's
birth.
"What's
the
girl's
name?
What's
the
mother's
name?
And
what's
the
father's
name?"
An
awkward,
collective
silence
from the
assembled
village
audience
followed
that
last
question.
But
Benita
only
laughed
and
didn't
seem to
care.
It's a
sense of
humor
that has
carried
Benita
through
a lot of
tough
moments
in her
life.
She's
been
working
as a
domestic
for more
than a
decade.
And in
recent
years,
even
before
she had
Aranza,
a chunk
of her
earnings
has been
going to
support
her
younger
brother
Victorino
as he
completed
high
school
and went
to
college,
the
first
member
of the
Castañeda
family
to do
so.
This is
the kind
of
sacrifice
young
women of
working
families
are
asked to
make
again
and
again in
Mexico:
Go to
work so
your
younger
brother
can get
an
education.
It isn't
fair,
but
Benita
doesn't
complain.
"Thank
God for
Benita,"
Victorino
told me
at the
baptism.
"She
never
forgot
me."
We left
long
before
the
party
ended,
before
the last
band
arrived
and the
tent
filled
with
people
dancing
and
kicking
up dust
on the
patio --
but
Benita
showed
us all
the
pictures.
A couple
of weeks
later,
the
Castañeda
family
held
another
party
—
for
Victorino's
graduation
with a
bachelor's
degree
in law.
If and
when
Victorino
begins
practicing
law, he
may one
day
fulfill
the
promise
he made
to
Benita
back
when he
started
college:
to help
pay for
his
niece
Aranza's
education.